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Router Table Depot Archive Page
Thursday, September 25, 2008
Router Table – How to UseBy Jim McClearyTips, Setup, Bits, Multiple Uses Would you like to know how to use a Router Table? Here are tips to realize the most from your router table. You do not need a miter channel. Normally, you slide your work along the fence. If using a miter channel, the fence must be square to the miter channel. Why go to that trouble? You can build a jig to glide along the Fence. This automatically aligns the wood for a square cut. You can make adjustment in profile and depth of cut. A shop-made Router Lift makes this easy. A quality Router Table fence eases dust collection. Use your Router Table and Fence for simplicity and ease! You should never put your work between the fence and the router bit. That is just asking for trouble. Usually, you slide the wood from right to left (when looking at the fence from the front). That is called an anti-climb cut. You make practically all cuts this way. If you are very careful, you can go a short distance in the opposite direction. But you must hold on tight to avoid kickback and/or injury. This climb cut gives cleaner edges, which you should attempt only after a lot of experience. Just do less than 15% of your cuts this way. You must use shallow or light cuts for the climb-cut. Do NOT take big cuts. Use this method when your hands are protected and away from the router bit. How to use a Router Table to center edge-to-edge joints: Have you ever wondered how to center edge-to-edge joints? You use this technique for making solid tabletops, wide panels, or even make edging to go around your router table top. Let's use an actual example of oak edging on a MDF Router Table Top. The top is 1 1/8" thick. The oak edging is 1 1/8" thick. How do we guarantee a centered edge? Decide on the tongue dimension. You have a 1/4" slot cutter. You want the tongue thickness less than two times the cut. Hence, the tongue thickness is slightly less than 1/2". We use a 1/4" depth of cut in this example. We want a tongue that is less than 1/2" in thickness. Therefore, we know that the rabbet on the Table Top is slightly more than 5/16" on both sides of a 1 1/8" thick piece. Rabbet the top with a rabbet bit with a bearing to produce a 1/4" rabbet. You don't want to take a lot during your first pass. Therefore, the depth of cut is set for 1/8" for your first pass. Set the fence so it is even with the bearing of the rabbet bit. Cut both top and bottom of the router top. Take your time and go all the way around. Make sure the workpiece is flat on the Router Table Top. Or use the router on top of the workpiece. Measure the thickness of the tongue. If it is larger than 1/2", then adjust the depth of cut. A shop-made router lift makes this easy. Note: you rout both sides; therefore use one-half the adjustment for each side. Make your adjustment, rout the top and bottom again. The tongue's thickness is now slightly less than 1/2". Replace your rabbeting bit with your 1/4" slot cutter. I always disconnect the power source to the router before changing bits! Sit the rabbeted piece on the router tabletop near the slot cutter. Raise the Router so the bottom of the slot cutter aligns with the bottom of the tongue. You may need support if the workpiece is large. Set the depth of cut for the slot to around 3/16" initially. Now slot your Oak edging. Turn it over and slot again. Test the slot on the tongue. Is it too tight? If so, remember that you make two passes with the slotter. Only lower your slot bit by 1/2 of the dimension needed. By the way, the Porter Cable 7518 Router makes this a snap. Since the slot cut is 1/4", the second pass is not using the entire cutter. You get an exactly center slot that fits on the tongue. Once the slot (groove) fits on the tongue, you are ready to set your final depth of the groove. The final depth of cut is slightly more than 1/4" to allow for glue. Set your fence for this final depth. Remember - make two passes with the slotter. This gives you an exact fit. You can use this method for any edge-to-edge joinery, such as tabletops, panels, large drawer fronts, and any time you want to join two-pieces. You get perfect alignment and a rock-solid joint. About the Author: For more information on Using Your Router Table, including pictures and tips, please visit How to Use a Router Table Jim is a woodworker with over 36 years of experience. He helps many woodworkers increase their skills with techniques, tips, plans, and jigs. Helping woodworkers is Jim's expertise. Visit his Specialty Site for loads of Proven Tips. Source: www.isnare.com Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=274049&ca=Arts+and+Crafts by: Router Table Depot 0 Comments 
Wednesday, September 24, 2008
Do You Have These Woodworking Tools?By Leroy K. CalstardIt’s no big secret that woodworking has always fascinated man. From the years of the carpenter Jesus, to the years of men relaxing on the porch whittling away a tiny figure or masterpiece (in their eyes at least), it doesn’t like the trend is going anywhere. I think that we can easily assume that wood is going to be the medium in which we build things and create things such as furniture and housing for years and years to come. It’s easy to assume that since your reading this article you have a passion for woodworking that others simply may not be able to understand. However, just look around to see that you’re obviously not alone. You’re not the only one who craves to get into your workshop and start creating away. I know that you love the look and texture of wood, as well as the smell of a freshly cut 2 x 4. This is probably the reason that you can easily and frequently see woodworking tool shows, and woodworking tool discounts all over the place on any given day. A familiar face in woodworking is Rockler Woodworking stores, which can be found all over the United States. A great thing about these stores, which you can also find at Home Depot at times as will is the fact that they offer “how to do it” classes many times for free. For example, at Rockler Woodworking school, attendees can sign up for learning to make a custom screw driver handle that will shine on any workbench. To say the least, many consider woodworking an art and just as with any craft there are tools that make the task easier and give a unique expert appearance to the finished product. It’s a hobby with an entire line of tools to create masterpieces out of trees. You’ll find the basic tools in the workshops of the world, which include but not limited to sanders, saws, jigs, clamps and an array of hand tools as well. When the woodworker needs to make cuts at angles that are difficult he’ll use a miter saw or a table saw. Also there’s the scroll saw, which gives you creativity and flexibility to perform intricate details. When use jigs, you’re making your cutting job precise, because the jigs acts as a guide. This makes certain that your woodcuts will begin and end at exactly the right place, as well as help you follow an exact line. Other hand tools frequently used by the woodworking enthusiast or professions are hammers of course, drivers, and drills. Along with these there are routers, which is a sawing machine, which acts as both saw and drill. It’s really a convenient tool to have. So whether you’re a woodworking hobbyist or professional it’s vital to have the right tools for the job. About the Author: Leroy Calstard routinely creates summaries on news associated to power tools and machinery. You can learn about his comments on woodworking over at http://www.insidewoodworking.com . Source: www.isnare.com Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=126719&ca=Home+Management You can also find a good tool information article here. by: Router Table Depot 0 Comments
Tuesday, September 23, 2008
Selecting A Router Bit SetBy Dave MarkelThe Router Bits every wood worker should own The best way to get started with your router is to buy a basic set of bits. This will provide the basic bits that are most commonly used in the shop. The router bit set should have a variety of profiles so you can perform a wide range of cuts. Look for both profiling bits with a guide bearing such as a round over or chamfer bit. Also look for bits that can cut in the middle of the board, bits like a straight cutting bit and dovetail bit. I recommend seven bits in a set. These are going to be the bits that allow you the most variety. As you learn and want to start building more complex projects you can buy bits to perform specific tasks. Below are descriptions of those seven bits and their basic functions. Straight Cutting or Mortising Bit This type of bit comes in several sizes starting around 1/2" and ranging up to 1-1/4". 3/4" is very common and will work for most purposes. Use this router bit when mortising out hinges for doors or when cutting dados. A straight cutting bit leaves a smooth flat bottom which makes it a poor choice for plunge cutting. A spiral cutting bit is better suited for plunge cuts. Dovetail Router Bit Dovetail bits are primarily for cutting joints. Use with a dovetail jig to cut perfect dovetail corners for chests and drawers. This bit is available in several different angles and a variety of sizes. Round Over Bit This profiling bit cuts a rounded profile onto the edge of a piece of stock. Available in a number of sizes this router bit also has a bearing on the bottom to guide it around the perimeter of a board. This is a very common profile for table and desk tops. Cove Bit A cove bit does the opposite of a round over bit. It cuts a smooth concave cove into your stock. A cove bit also uses a bearing to follow the contours of the stock. Available in a variety of sizes, cove bits can add a nice decorative feature to desk tops and chair legs. When using larger size cove bits make successive passes gradually taking more wood off until the desired profile is reached. Chamfering Bits A chamfer is an angled profile. Chamfer bits are available in several angles with 45° being the most common. This profiling bits has a guide bearing to follow the edge of the piece being cut and is commonly used on laminate countertops and cabinets. Ogee Bits An ogee is a cove and a round over. This bit makes a wonderful decorative feature for a wide variety of projects. This bit has a guide bearing and can be used effectively freehand or with a router table. Beading Bit This bit cuts a bead with a small bevel above and below it. A beading bit take a bit of testing before making your final cut. Adjusting the height of the bit will help equal the size of the upper bevel with the lower bevel. This is an ideal router bit for shelves, casing and trim. These seven router bits will do almost any cut you will need when starting out with a router. It is better to try and get router bits with a 1/2" shank rather than a 1/4". If you are buying a larger bit that removes a lot of wood then a 1/2" shank if almost mandatory. This larger shank size will provide more strength to the bit and reduce vibrations, this results in a smoother cut. Always get router bits that have a carbide cutting surface. Carbide is much harder then the alternative, steel, and will hold its edge longer. Steel starts out cutting well but will loose their edge quicker then carbide. About the Author: Router bits are what make your router perform. For more information about router bits and basic wood routers in general visit Accurate Woodworking for our complete router guide. Source: www.isnare.com Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=120306&ca=Home+Management You can find more router bit sets Here by: Router Table Depot 0 Comments
Monday, September 22, 2008
Sharpening Router BitsBy Tony ScorchAll the time you see different products that come out to help the woodworker sharpen his or her tools in the shop. There is just about every contraption out there with a variety of prices and features. The one thing you never see is a good system for sharpening router bits. I am all for having super sharp chisels in my shop, but I just don’t use my chisel set all that much. Buying a $350 sharpener just does not do much for my enthusiasm. However I am constantly using my router bits since the router table is a big part of my workshop. Every time I sharpen a bit, it cost generally between 5 and 10 dollars. I like to use quality bits so sharpening them and keeping them sharp is in my best interest. In the meantime, keeping the bits clean is probably one of the best things you can do to prolong the life of your router bit. I try to make a system so that the bits stay as clean as possible. This may work for you. I take a small piece of mdf and drill some ¼ and ½” holes in them. On one piece I write “clean” and the other I write “dirty” Having duplicate bits is the key to this system. When a bit gets gunked up, I take it and place it on the dirty holder. When I get enough of them to warrant a few minutes of cleaning, I get out my cleaners and brass brush and have at it. Always remove the bearings first so as to not damage them. I quick scrub removes some of the pitch that builds up on the cutting edges. If you do laminate work, you will notice that flush trim bits get very dirty very fast. Simply cleaning the bit in this instance makes a world of difference. At this time it’s a great idea to give the bits a few swipes on a diamond sharpener to touch up the edges. This helps keep the bit tuned up between sharpening. After I finish I move the bits to the “clean” bit holder and they are ready to go back to work. Sharpening I use the same system for cleaning as I do for sharpening. The two bit holder technique works well for keeping things organized. You can send bits and blades out to be sharpened with companies you find on the internet. This is becoming handier since the items are turned fairly quickly (a week or less) and the companies ships them right back to your doorstep. I like this option because I do not have to allocate any time in taking them and picking them up. I call that a “low value activity” Having duplicates allows me to keep working while the other bit is getting sharpened. I do like to go the extra mile and make a simple chart that keeps track of my sharpening. This way I know that I am using sharp tools which give me better cuts in my materials. Today So what exists out there today for the home user? Not much. I have always said that the person who invents the tool that helps automates this task will do very well for themselves. Investing time in some good quality stones would be a good alternative. However if you are a production shop, stopping and taking the time and learning curve to get good at this might not always be cost effective. Hobbyists might are more prone to taking the time to hand sharpen their bits, but there is a some kinks in that theory too. Many of the newer bits are very complex. Their shapes don’t lend themselves to easy sharpening and thus can kill the whole do it yourself theory. These bits are best sharpened by the professional. The next time you read through your favorite woodworking magazine, take note of all the sharpeners for sale and you will definitely notice what I am talking about. Take the time to organize a good cleaning and sharpening system and your wallet will thank you. It can make a big difference when you are working on that special project if you have nice clean and sharp router bits. About the Author: More information Router Bit Sets, More Router Table Articles, and Your Router Table Headquarters. Source: www.isnare.com Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=199038&ca=Recreation by: Router Table Depot 0 Comments
Thursday, September 18, 2008
Bench Top Router Table ReviewsBy Tony ScorchBuying a bench top router table today can be a little bit frustrating. I get asked all kinds of questions. I notice a lot of people are trying to do things on bench top tables that really should be reserved for larger tables. The reason is most bench top tables are short on features. Even if they have all the features of a bigger table they use non standard sizes which make it hard to use. A good example of this would be miter track. Miter track comes in an industry standard size ¾” slot. All accessories are made to ¾ and fit most tables with miter track. Some bench top manufactures make their tables with smaller track and then nothing fits in them except for what they give you. Another key problem with the features of the smaller tables is that they are not made very well. This kind of boggles the mind. If you took the great quality and shrunk it down to smaller size, why would it not sell? The answer is, it will, but not many do it. So what is the solution? Well look for features that you know you want or need. Miter track Split fences Dust ports Fence t-track Bench legs that can be bolted to workbenches or stands Large work areas Heavy duty part Router table inserts If you look at the tables today you can find an interesting comparison to their features. The tables that are most popular are Bosch 1181 RTD Super Bench Rousseau Folding Table Rockler Skil Model 450 At the bottom of the pile is the Skil 450. It is manufactured for several different brands. It’s a very good beginner table but it does have a lot of limitations and has a lot of non standard equipment. The biggest drawback is that you cannot use any router on it. The Bosch 1181 table is loaded with features, which is great. It too will not fit all routers. It is also very expensive and if you choose to add the matching stand, that will set you back another $100. It’s not so much the quality but the price that detracts from this table set. The Super Bench from Router Table Depot has every feature that you might want, and all in standard sizes. The price is very competitive and offers you the most standard features for the best price of all the tables reviewed. The Rousseau folding table is another feature rich table with a high sticker price. You can add a few more features with the RTD table and still come in a little lower in price. The foldable legs could come in handy if you have wall space to hang it on. Rockler makes a nice design with wooden legs. However the top does not have an insert which discourages the creation of raised panels. They do have snap in rings but they are not big enough for the larger bits available today. The low price is felt on the lack of features. Putting all the tables side by side gives you a great comparison of what’s important to you. This is always a good idea whether you are buying a woodworking tool or a car. About the Author: Read more articles You can also learn more about router tables at Router Table Depot Source: www.isnare.com Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=181304&ca=Business by: Router Table Depot 0 Comments
Your First Router TableBy Tony ScorchOk, so you have decided that you want a router table for your workshop. All the cool stuff you saw on tv, made you decide to take the plunge. It’s a good choice really since the router table is such a versatile tool. You can do all sorts of profiles that you would never be able to do on other tools. So the first thing you need to figure out is whether or not you want to buy one or build your own. This article will give you some highlights to help you figure out which direction to take. First, do your homework, a little research goes a long way. Keep all your notes in one spot and try to do this exercise in one sitting. Having all the data fresh and ready will help you choose more quickly and get you on your way to having a table quicker. Think about key reasons you would want to buy such as; it’s quicker, it’s convenient, there are a lot of models to choose from or you are new to woodworking. Next think about reasons to build such as you want a custom size or you like to build things yourself because time is not a factor. Second, know the features you are looking for. The features are what makes the products stand out. These are important to know and will help you determine what table to buy. Common features include; router table inserts, miter track, split fences, dust port, t- track and leg kits Look at different tables to find out what features are the best for you. Third. Know what size table you want. Router tables come in two different sizes. Benchtop tables are smaller router tables and are best selected when space is an issue. Larger or full-size tables are selected when you want full features and space is not an issue. Keep in mind that some benchtop tables have a matching stand that you can buy separately. This makes the benchtop table closer to a standalone router table. Fourth. Make a budget, it sounds reasonable. Sometimes you will find that benchtop tables can cost as much as building your own full-size table. There is nothing worse than finding this out after you made your purchase. A good side by side comparison can be your best friend when making a tool purchase. Lastly, and this might sound kind of weird, but if you can find a site that sells products that base support that is always a good thing. A lot of computer companies offer support after the sale. They have representatives and tech support that help answer questions. This seems to be lacking in the woodworking industry. So if you find this feature can definitely be an advantage. I always feel better when buying something online of having the ability to ask a real person a question and get a reasonable answer. Not a sales answer, but a wood worker's point of view. This is pretty frustrating when you go to Sears since most of the salesman are people that don't have any real experience. Getting real answers is always rewarding and can help with the buying decision. About the Author: Read more articles You can also learn more about router tables at Router Table Depot Source: www.isnare.com Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=177608&ca=Education by: Router Table Depot 0 Comments
Wednesday, September 17, 2008
Wednesday, September 10, 2008
Lumber purchased from a local sawmill can be had at a fraction of the cost of lumber purchased at a lumber yard. The simple process of “Googling” sawyers (or sawmills) in your local area will reveal a surprising number of sources of high quality green lumber in sizes and species that you are unlikely to find at the lumber yard (which generally specializes in construction grade lumber and maintains cabinetry grade stock only as a side business). Check with local mills to see what they have on hand and how much they charge per board foot. For example, in Florida, where Cherry sells at the lumber yard for about $7.00 a board foot and Oak is about $6.00 a board foot, the price for green lumber ranges from $.65 a board foot for Florida Pine to $2.00 a board foot for Cherry. In the case of Pine, the lumber can be air dried in a matter of a few months and for harder woods, a solar kiln can be built very inexpensively. Another excellent means of obtaining good quality green stock involves the ancient technology of the “Froe”, a small piece of hardware that is used to split small, rough, shingle-like boards from a short log. By using a froe, lumber of the perfect size to build small boxes, chairs, turning stock, etc. can be had just by searching the local area for small discarded chunks of cut down trees. Stock can be made from palm trees, live oak, slash Pine, apple, pear, cherry and even dogwood and magnolia trees just by keeping ones eyes open for small, freshly cut logs in people’s front yards. It is an excellent way to experiment with woods that one simply will not find otherwise. The effort to use a froe is minimal and with a bit of practice one can make a significant amount of short stock out of pretty much any wood big enough to produce a board. Many years ago, I was fortunate to live in a rural part of the country where forests were plentiful and every tenth farmer owned a portable sawmill. The cost of buying a small truckload of standing timber, having it moved to the portable mill and then either paying to have it sawed or splitting the lumber with the sawyer was relatively small. For example, I was able to buy a truckload of about 6000 board feet of timber consisting of a combination of White Pine, Ash, Black Cherry, Red oak and White Oak, with a couple of hard and soft Maple logs thrown in for just over six hundred dollars. For an additional three hundred dollars I hired a logger to cut the timber (I would NOT recommend anyone to cut trees themselves, it is very dangerous work) and haul it to the roadside and for two hundred and fifty dollars I hired a logging truck to transport it seven miles to a farmer with a portable sawmill. I split the lumber with the farmer and ended up with 3000 board foot of prime stock of multiple cuts, sizes and species for a total cost of less than twelve hundred dollars, or about forty cents a board foot. I built a small solar kiln for three hundred dollars and kiln-dried a third of the lumber and stickered the rest to let it air dry. Used or construction grade lumber It sounds a bit odd, but people have been reusing lumber from pallets, old barn boards, even dimensional building lumber for cabinetry for years. A good friend of mine routinely cuts old 2x4’s into stripping for bird houses, doll houses and small boxes. Such stock is generally soft wood (and thus amazingly easy to work) and can be had for very little money. The best part is that it can be used to experiment and develop new styles and techniques of cabinetry without a significant outlay of cash. If you are fortunate to live in an area where old barns are falling to the ground along the roadside (which would include a significant part of the country), it might well be worth stopping by and talking to the owner about reclaiming some of the lumber (it is wise to wait until the structure has actually fallen… usually the owner is happy to have you just haul the old boards off). The only caution I would make about reusing old barn boards is to run a strong magnet or metal detector over them before running them through a planer or using a roughing plane to reshape the surfaces. Once you have planed them a bit, you will be amazed at what superior lumber old barn boards can be, I am of the opinion that carpenters were far more “picky” about the stock they used a hundred years ago than people are today. by: Router Table Depot 0 Comments
Monday, September 8, 2008
A short trip to any of the big lumber stores and mega-glomerate hardware chain outlets will quickly illustrate the most daunting problem for any amateur woodworker. Once you have accumulated the necessary saws, planes, routers, drills and other tools necessary to shape and join wood, the price of stock to work with can be positively mind numbing. An inspection of prices at the above sources for a simple board of red oak will reveal a price of some $6.00 per board foot. Cherry (when and where available) is even more expensive and White Pine is only slightly cheaper. It is small wonder that even the professional wood shops have substantially reduced their dependence on dimensional lumber in favor of plywood, particle board, MDF and other such derivatives of the forest. The good news is that good stock need not be so expensive. The fact is that these prices are not reflective of the wood itself so much as the cost of transporting it. If you look to other sources for stock and are willing to put some effort into the process and be a little flexible, good workable lumber can still be had at reasonable prices. The key to locating good sources of stock is to think locally. In other words, remember that the main factor in cost at the lumber yard is transportation, so try to eliminate that cost by utilizing sources where either the cost of transportation is eliminated (by using locally grown and sawn timber) or by reusing lumber already transported to your area. by: Router Table Depot 0 Comments
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